The best time to visit the Philippines and learn about its culture is not actually on Christmas or the summer holidays, but during Lenten Season when the people’s faith and reverence to God is at its peak. Hence, Holy Week celebrations are just as important for devout Catholics as well as for tourists and foreigners who would like to immerse in the Filipinos’ rich culture and strong sense of religiosity.
Popularly known as Semana Santa or Mahal na Araw, the seven-day religious festival which marks the passion and death of Jesus Christ is celebrated all over this predominantly Roman Catholic country. It is only during this time that most of the businesses temporarily shut down operations usually from Maundy Thursday to Black Saturday to give the working public the time to reflect and pray. Even television shows and radio programs sign off the air or broadcast only religious films and shows in observance of Lent.
An expression of faith
Celebrations start at Palm Sunday or Linggo ng Palaspas where Catholics recreate the events during Jesus’ time by carrying palm fronds to be blessed by the priest after hearing Mass. Filipinos believe that these palm fronds when placed in their homes, particularly on the front doors or windows, can ward off evil spirits. This practice particularly reenacts the Gospel reading of Jesus’ entry into Jerusalem, where he was welcomed by people waving palm fronds and laying their cloaks on the ground for his donkey to walk upon.
The Pabasa or marathon chanting of Jesus’ life, passion and death in poetic prayer is recited day and night, from Holy Monday to Holy Wednesday at churches and chapels across the country.
The faithful, meanwhile, embark on a solemn church-hopping tour more popularly known as “Visita Iglesia” on Maundy Thursdays. At least seven churches are visited by the people where they pray the Stations of the Cross.
It is also during this time that priests renew their sacerdotal vows while people happily express their support.
The last Mass before Easter, called “the Mass of the Institution of the Lord’s Supper” is likewise held on Maundy Thursday along with the reenactment of the Washing of the Feet of the Apostles. A procession of the Blessed Sacrament follows after the Mass.
Good Friday or Biyernes Santo and Easter Sunday are the highlights of the week-long celebration. It is usually marked by solemn street processions, the Way of the Cross, the Seven Last Words and a passion play called the Senakulo.
It is during Black Saturday (or Sabado de Gloria) where all festivities temporarily the come to a halt in observance of the death of Jesus Christ.
A joyous celebration resumes at dawn on Easter Sunday with the “Salubong”. This ceremony reenacts the meeting of the resurrected Christ and his mother, the Virgin Mary through a procession of their images, along with St. Peter and Mary Magdalene.
A black veil is attached to the statue of bereaved Virgin Mary, while a girl dressed as an angel sings the Regina Coeli and then dramatically pulls the veil off the image, signifying the end of her grieving. The spectacle is made more dramatic with the ringing of bells and fireworks, and a joyous Easter Mass.
Proud witness
As a young child, I have been exposed early to the rituals of Lent in my hometown in Mabalacat, Pampanga. This season for me then was a happy occasion. I remember looking forward to the yearly family reunions where we would go home to this province not only to watch the rituals but also to bond with cousins and long-lost relatives.
The early morning Pabasa are much-awaited occasions for me because native desserts are served to visitors while chanting is ongoing. However, I get drowsy after a meal as the hypnotic chanting sort of lulls me to sleep.
I get afraid, however of the old lady named Apong Anti, a lunatic who gatecrashes at the Pabasa, pinching people and kids like me. More frightful were the flagellants I see on the streets, hitting themselves with whips. Their bloodied bodies are an awful sight especially for young kids. Seeing them and others who carry the Cross, I could not help but wonder why they would torture themselves like that.
My grandmother explained that it was a vow or panata for many asking for answers to their prayers and a form of worship for Jesus who went through the same ordeal. And so, I finally understood why these people would want to imitate such a painful ritual. To this day, I admire their courage and deep devotion.
How various towns celebrate
Pampanga – The Holy Week celebration in Pampanga is the most popular of all the various rituals observed across the country. Here, processions include devotees who flagellate themselves with bamboo sticks tied to a rope and have themselves nailed to a cross as expressions of penance or in fulfillment of a vow, usually as thanksgiving for a granted request or prayer.
The town of San Pedro in San Fernando, for instance, attracts visitors during its Cutud Lenten Rites which includes a passion play culminating with the actual nailing of at least three penitents (men and women) to a wooden cross, on top of a makeshift Calvary on Good Friday. They are only taken down when they feel cleansed of their sin. Penitents are called magdarame, mamalaspas for those who flagellate themselves, mamusan krus for the cross-bearers, magsalibatbat for those who crawl on dirt roads and cristos are called for those who are nailed to a cross.
Usually, the penitents nailed to the cross come in batches of three. After the first batch is taken down and placed on stretchers, the next batch will follow, with their hands and feet even being hammered to the cross like Jesus.
Marinduque – The Moriones festival in Marinduque also draws many visitors during Holy Week. The local folk who dress in costumes and masks (morion) replicating the garb of biblical Roman soldiers are called Moriones. They march around town for seven days scaring young children or engaging in antics to draw attention.
This religious festival reenacts the story of Longinus, a Roman centurion who was blind in one eye and was said to have pierced the side of Jesus when he was crucified. The blood that came out of Jesus’ side touched his blind eye and fully restored his sight. This miracle converted Longinus to Christianity. But his fellow Centurions weren’t happy with his conversion and beheaded him. Various towns also hold the Pabasa. At 3 p.m. on Good Friday, the Santo Sepulcro is observed, where old women exchange verses based on the Bible as they stand in the wake of the dead Christ. Another highlight is the Via Crucis, a reenactment of the suffering of Christ on his way to Calvary. Similar to the Kapampangans, these penitents also whip their backs, carry crosses and have themselves nailed to the cross – all part of their penitence.
Baliuag – The town of Baliuag in Bulacan is famous for its Semana Santa processions where 87 carrozas or floats with life-sized images of the saints showcase significant events from the life and passion of Christ.
Cabatuan – Cabatuan, Iloilo showcases its wooden and porcelain statues in Lenten processions. The most popular set of these figures is the wooden Last Supper.
In the morning of Good Friday, thousands of townsfolk follow the statue of the Nazareno in a procession called Via Crucis from the Church to the Balic Hill, pausing on the 14 Stations of the Cross erected along the path. Another procession is held in the afternoon around the poblacion. Also on display are life-sized carvings and effigies built from indigenous materials.
The Dampug culminates the Holy Week celebration in the place with the reenactment of the angel’s proclamation of Christ’s resurrection and his meeting with Mary. Every year, a child of an illustrious family in town is chosen as a Dampug or the proclaiming angel.
Malolos – In Malolos, Bulacan, the three antique but miraculous images of the Holy Trinity are featured in a procession during the Santisima Trinidad Fiesta in May or June, and during Easter Sunday.
Paete – The Holy Week festivities in Paete, Laguna begins on Palm Sunday with the re-enactment of Christ’s entry into Jerusalam. The short procession starts at the Ermita Chapel where the priest blesses the palaspas (palm branch). The participants then proceed to the church for the payapak, a custom where religious women put their shawls on the street for the priest to walk on. A mass is held and afterwards the 16th-century statue of the Dead Body of Christ, or Senor Sepulkro to Paetenos, is brought home to its recamadero or the keeper of image. The images are owned by individual families and are passed down to succeeding generations.
For five days leading to Good Friday, devotees kiss the hands and feet of the Senor Sepulkro. On Holy Wednesday, a procession is held with Paete’s 53 images of Christ’s Passion and Ministry. The procession goes through the town’s narrow streets and stops three times to give way to the Salubong (meeting) depicting the meeting of Christ and Mary; the wiping of Jesus’ face by Veronica; and the encounter between Mary and Veronica who showed the imprints of Christ’s face on her cloth.
The dramatization of the Last Supper, the Washing of the Disciples’ feet and a night-long vigil is observed on Maundy Thursday.
No matter how similar or different these towns celebrate the passion, death and resurrection of Jesus Christ, tourists can witness a country basking in its colorful culture and a people who engage in life-long devotion and worship to their Creator.
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Tags: death of jesus christ, devout catholics, passion and death of jesus christ